Absurd Minds

I recently bought the Cooler Master Quickfire Stealth, https://www.massdrop.com/buy/cooler-master-storm, and surprisingly, have been missing my number pad. As part of an adventure I am going to begin my journey on making my own number pad, design the circuit, design the PCB, get the PCB printed, and code the appropriate chips with the features I want on it.

Design
I already have everything pictured in my head on how this board will be laid out and have yet to get designs made. I am going to design a simple circuit that is actually well known and used often, the technique of soldering diodes to each switch and have them arranged in columns with each column being processed based on signal power.

The basic way this is assembled is as follows:



Most number pads have a few keys that are two-wide that use stabilizers. In an attempt to clean up my design and have a basic board, I have come up with a simple 4x5 matrix with blank key caps.

So, instead of this:



I am going to do something like this:



As far as the PCB itself is concerned, I am going to use Eagle CAD to design the basic device and get OSH Park to print the board because their manufacturing is so sexy compared to normal boards. Their boards are also around $5 per square inch for two-layered boards, so that isn't bad :



I haven't done any other work other than theoretical work so I am going to keep this thread updated with my progress on the board as I work on this over the summer. From what I have estimated I can build this board for $150 max and around $120 if my design works flawlessly from the start. Heck, I may get 3 prints made of this board, which will cost money, but will still be worth it since this is an educational venture and my parents will maybe probably possibly just maybe fund it. if I go straight to getting a PCB designed and printed, however, I would like to get a test one made before I get the board printed. But since I do not have any of the equipment to make it myself since I have no plate to mount in on nor tools to use to make it like that, I am probably going to get the print made.

Just going to throw this in here, I am probably going to use a Teensy 3.1 https://www.pjrc.com/teensy/teensy31.html

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This is really cool. Be sure to keep us up to date with the build.

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Apparently I can make three of these, just the boards.



So if someone wants one extra (because I want 2 of them ) then I will be happy to send them the board, just the board, nothing else, so its a DIY minus the board.

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Update: I have designed a sketch build of this in EagleCad and have yet to completely test the circuit. Will post pics when I get the files copied (on new computer).

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Use rubber domes for the pad (Unless you use them consistently like during a job). Getting mech keys for a number pad for things like CSGO binds is kinda overkill and is harder to make.

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i forgot to put a signature when i first joined

so this is my signature now

Mechanical > Rubber dome for me.

Plus, I like the challenge and fun of making it.

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I wouldnt do blues because theyre really easy to hit the wrong bind bc its so easy to hit both at the same time

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Since plastic is made from petroleum and petroleum comes from dinosaurs, then that means plastic dinosaurs are made from real dinosaurs

Typical resistances of mechanical switches:

BLUE: 60g actuation, 50g after
BROWN: 55g actuation, 45g after
RED: 45g
BLACK: 40g-80g, typically about 60g
CLEAR: 65g actuation, 55g after

Therefore, Redman's fat fingers have nothing to do with pushing the wrong bind.

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Honey Badgers have very tough skin. The skin is very thick and rubbery, which is almost impervious to arrow and spears. Even a blow from machete can't scratch the skin. The skin protects them from bites.

Also: every switch and key, at least if made properly, all have the same spacing, 3/4"

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Just finished my first rendition of the PCB design on the number pad. Waiting on my electrician friend to approve it and get it printed.





On why the bussing on the top is ugly: I couldn't for the life of me buss it and had no clue how to get around organizing the traces.

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How is it ugly? What's it supposed to look like?

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Those pins up there in the top are for me to bug test the board and the chip. I think its ugly because the busses don't line up and are funky looking.

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I should have voted for clear instead of black.

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